Chapter 3





The pear-shaped carabiner, specifically the locking version, is excellent for clipping a descender
or belay device to the harness. This kind of carabiner works well with the munter hitch belaying
knot.
Regardless of the type chosen, all carabiners should be UIAA tested. This testing is extensive
and tests the carabiner in three ways―along its major axis, along its minor axis, and with the
gate open.

PITONS
3-20. These are metal pins that are hammered into cracks in the rock. They are described by their
thickness, design, and length (Figure 3-13). Pitons provide a secure anchor for a rope attached by a
carabiner. The many different kinds of pitons include— vertical, horizontal, wafer, and angle. They are
made of malleable steel, hardened steel, or other alloys. The strength of a piton is determined by its
placement rather than its rated tensile strength. The two most common types of pitons are— blades, which
hold when wedged into tight-fitting cracks, and angles, which hold blade compression when wedged into a
crack.

Vertical Pitons
3-21. On vertical pitons, the blade and eye are aligned. These pitons are used in flush, vertical cracks.

Horizontal Pitons
3-22. On horizontal pitons, the eye of the piton is at right angles to the blade. These pitons are used in
flush, horizontal cracks and in offset or open-book type vertical or horizontal cracks. They are
recommended for use in vertical cracks instead of vertical pitons because the torque on the eye tends to
wedge the piton into place. This provides more holding power than the vertical piton under the same
circumstances.

Wafer Pitons
3-23. These pitons are used in shallow, flush cracks. They have little holding power and their weakest
points are in the rings provided for the carabiner.

Knife Blade Pitons
3-24. These are used in direct-aid climbing. They are small and fit into thin, shallow cracks. They have a
tapered blade that is optimum for both strength and holding power.

Realized Ultimate Reality Pitons
3-25. Realized ultimate reality pitons (RURPs) are hatchet-shaped pitons about 1-inch square. They are
designed to bite into thin, shallow cracks.

Angle Pitons
3-26. These are used in wide cracks that are flush or offset. Maximum strength is attained only when the
legs of the piton are in contact with the opposite sides of the crack.

Bong Pitons
3-27. These are angle pitons that are more than 3.8 centimeters wide. Bongs are commonly made of steel
or aluminum alloy and usually contain holes to reduce weight and accommodate carabiners. They have a
high holding power and require less hammering than other pitons.

3-12

TC 3-97.61

26 July 2012