Mountaineering Equipment

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As climbing becomes more technical, a shorter ax is much more appropriate, and adding a
second tool is a must when the terrain becomes vertical. The shorter ax has all the attributes of
the longer ax, but it is anywhere from 40 to 55 centimeters long and can have a straight or bent
shaft depending on the preference of the user.

ICE HAMMER
3-42. The ice hammer is as short or shorter than the technical ax (Figure 3-24). It is used for pounding
protection into the ice or pitons into the rock. The only difference between the ice ax and the ice hammer is
the ice hammer has a hammerhead instead of an adze. Most of the shorter ice tools have a hole in the shaft
to which a leash is secured, which provides a more secure purchase in the ice.

Figure 3-24. Ice ax and ice hammers.

CRAMPONS
3-43. Crampons are used when the footing becomes treacherous. They have multiple spikes on the bottom
and spikes protruding from the front (Figure 3-25). Two types of crampons are available: flexible and rigid.
Regardless of the type of crampon chosen, fit is the most important factor associated with crampon wear.
The crampon should fit snugly on the boot with a minimum of 1 inch of front point protruding. Straps
should fit snugly around the foot and any long, loose ends should be trimmed. Both flexible and rigid
crampons come in pairs, and any tools needed for adjustment will be provided by the manufacturer.
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The hinged or flexible crampon is best used when no technical ice climbing will be done. It is
designed to be used with soft, flexible boots, but can be attached to plastic mountaineering boots.
The flexible crampon gets its name from the flexible hinge on the crampon itself. All flexible
crampons are adjustable for length while some allow for width adjustment. Most flexible
crampons will attach to the boot by means of a strap system. The flexible crampon can be worn
with a variety of boot types.
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The rigid crampon, as its name implies, is rigid and does not flex. This type of crampon is
designed for technical ice climbing, but can be used on less vertical terrain. The rigid crampon
can only be worn with plastic mountaineering boots. Rigid crampons will have a toe and heel
bail attachment with a strap that wraps around the ankle.

26 July 2012

TC 3-97.61

3-21