Some Notes on the History of the French Cuisine. Carlos Mirasierras.pdf


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Some Notes on the History of the French Cuisine. From the Middles Ages to late 20th century. Carlos Mirasierras

Georges Auguste Escoffier is commonly
acknowledged as the key
figure in the
modernization of haute cuisine and in the
process of organizing what would become the
national cuisine of France. His influence
began with the rise of some of the great
hotels in Europe and America during the
1880s – 1890s. The Savoy Hotel managed by
César Ritz was an early hotel in which
Escoffier worked, but much of his influence
came during his management of the kitchens
in the Carlton from 1898 until 1921. He
created a system of “parties” called the
brigade system, which he divided separated
the professional kitchen into five separate
stations.
These five stations included the “garde manger” that prepared cold dishes; the
“entremettier” prepared starches and vegetables, the “rôtisseur” prepared roasts, grilled
and fried dishes; the “saucier” prepared sauces and soups; and the “pâtissier” prepared
all pastry and desserts items. This system meant that instead of one person preparing
a dish on one’s own, now multiple cooks would prepare the different components for
the dish. An example used is “oeufs au plat Meyerbeer”, the previous system would
take up to fifteen minutes to prepare the dish, while with the new system, the eggs
would be prepared by the entremettier, kidney grilled by the rôtisseur, truffle sauce
made by the saucier and thus the dish could be prepared in a shorter time and served
quickly.
Escoffier also simplified and organized the modern menu and structure of the meal. He
published a series of articles in professional journals that outlined the sequence; later,
in 1912 he finally published his Livre des menus. This type of service embraced the
service à la russe (serving meals in separate courses on individual plates), which Félix
Urbain Dubois had made popular in the 1860s. Escoffier’s largest contribution was the
publication of Le Guide Culinaire in 1903, which set up the fundamentals of French
cookery. The book was a collaboration with Philéas Gilbert, E. Fetu, A. Suzanne, B.
Reboul, Ch. Dietrich, A. Caillat, among others.

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