Mountain Terrain, Weather, and Hazards

V

VI

VII

A long climb in a remote setting, requiring all day to complete the climb itself. Requires many
rappels off anchors for the descent. This route has sustained exposure to avalanche or other
objective hazards.
A long ice climb in an alpine setting, with sustained technical climbing. Only elite climbers
will complete it in a day. A difficult and involved approach and descent, with objective hazards
ever-present, all in a remote area.
Everything a grade VI has, and more of it. Possibly days to approach the climb, and objective
hazards rendering survival as questionable. Difficult physically and mentally.

Technical Ratings
1-36. Technical ratings are expressed as Arabic numerals.
1
2
3
4
5

6
7
8

A frozen lake or stream bed.
A pitch with short sections of ice up to 80 degrees; lots of opportunity for protection and good
anchors.
Sustained ice up to 80 degrees; the ice is usually good, with places to rest, but it requires skill
at placing protection and setting anchors.
A sustained pitch that is vertical or slightly less than vertical; may have special features such as
chandeliers and run-outs between protection.
A long, strenuous pitch, possibly 50 meters of 85- to 90-degree ice, with few if any rests
between anchors. The pitch may be shorter, but on featureless ice. Good skills at placing
protection are required.
A full 50-meter pitch of dead vertical ice, possibly of poor quality; requires efficiency of
movement and ability to place protection while in awkward stances.
A full rope length of thin vertical or overhanging ice of dubious adhesion. An extremely tough
pitch, physically and mentally, requiring agility and creativity.
Simply the hardest ice climbing ever done; extremely bold and gymnastic.

CROSS-COUNTRY MOVEMENT
1-37. Soldiers must know the terrain to determine the feasible routes for cross-country movement when no
roads or trails are available.

A pre-operations intelligence effort should include topographic and photographic map coverage
as well as detailed weather data for the area of operations. When planning mountain operations,
additional information may be needed about size, location, and characteristics of landforms;
drainage; types of rock and soil; and the density and distribution of vegetation. Control must be
decentralized to lower levels because of varied terrain, erratic weather, and communication
problems inherent to mountainous regions.

Movement is often restricted due to terrain and weather. The erratic weather requires that
Soldiers be prepared for wide variations in temperature, types, and amounts of precipitation.
1-38. Movement above the timberline reduces the amount of protective cover available at lower elevations.
The logistical problem is important; therefore, each man must be self-sufficient to cope with normal
weather changes using materials from his rucksack.
1-39. Movement during a storm is difficult due to poor visibility and bad footing on steep terrain. Although
the temperature is often higher during a storm than during clear weather, the dampness of rain and snow
and the penetration of wind cause Soldiers to chill quickly. Although climbers should get off the high
ground and seek shelter and warmth, if possible, during severe mountain storms, capable commanders may
use reduced visibility to achieve tactical surprise.

When the tactical situation requires continued movement during a storm, the following
precautions should be observed:
—
Maintain visual contact.

26 July 2012

TC 3-97.61

1-9