Chapter 1

Table 1-1. Comparison of rating systems.
YDS
Class 1
Class 2
Class 3
Class 4
5.0
5.1
5.2
5.3
5.4
5.5
5.6
5.7
5.8
5.9
5.10a
5.10b
5.10c
5.10d
5.11a
5.11b
5.11c
5.12a
5.12b
5.12c
5.12d

UIAA
I
II
III
III –
III
III +
IV –
IV
IV +
V–
V
V+
VI –
VI
VII –
VII
VII
VII +
VIII –
VIII
VIII
IX –
IX
IX
IX +

BRITISH
Easy (E)
Easy (E)
Easy (E)
Moderate (MOD)
Moderate (MOD)
Difficult (DIFF)
Hard difficult
Very difficult
Hard very difficult
Mild severe
Severe, hard severe, 4a
Severe, hard severe, 4b
Hard severe,
hard very severe, 4c
5a
E1, 5b
E1, 5b
E1, 5b
E1/E2, 5b-5c
E3, 6a
E3/E4, 6a
E4, 6b
E5, E6/7, 6c
E5, E6/7, 6c
E5, E6/7, 6c
E6/7, 7a

FRENCH

1a, b, c
1a, b, c
2a, b
2a, b
2c, 3a
3b, c, 4a
3b, c, 4a
3b, c, 4a
4a, b, c
4a, b, c
5a, b
5b, c
5b, c
5b, c
5b, c
5b, c
6a, b, c
6a, b, c
6a, b, c
7a
7a
7a
7a

BRAZIL

AUSTRALIA

II
IIsup
III
IIIsup
IV

4
5
6
7
8, 9
10, 11
12, 13
14
15

IVsup
V
Vsup
VI
VIsup
VII
VII
VIIsup
VIII
VIIIsup

16, 17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
26
27
28
29

1-34. Ice climbing ratings can have commitment ratings and technical ratings. The numerical ratings are
often prefaced with WI (waterfall ice), AI (alpine ice), or M (mixed rock and ice).

Commitment Ratings
1-35. Commitment ratings are expressed in Roman numerals.
I
II
III

IV

1-8

A short, easy climb near the road, with no avalanche hazard and a straightforward descent.
A route of one or two pitches within a short distance of rescue assistance, with little objective
hazard.
A multipitch route at low elevation, or a one-pitch climb with an approach that takes about an
hour. The route requires anywhere from a few hours to a long day to complete. The descent
may require building rappel anchors, and the route might be prone to avalanche.
A multipitch route at higher elevations; may require several hours of approach on skis or foot.
This route is subject to objective hazards, possibly with a hazardous descent.

TC 3-97.61

26 July 2012