Chapter 1











Class 5.7―Great Difficulty. Considerable climbing experience is necessary. Longer
stretches of climbing requiring several points of intermediate protection. Higher levels of
energy expenditure will be experienced.
Class 5.8 Very Great Difficulty. Increasing amount of intermediate protection is the rule.
High physical conditioning, climbing technique, and experience required.
Class 5.9 Extremely Great Difficulty. Requires well above average ability and excellent
condition. Exposed positions, often combined with small belay points. Passages of the
difficult sections can often be accomplished under good conditions. Often combined with
aid climbing (A0-A4).
Class 5.10 Extraordinary Difficulty. Climb only with improved equipment and intense
training. Besides acrobatic climbing technique, mastery of refined security technique is
indispensable. Often combined with aid climbing (A0-A4).
Class 5.11-5.14 Greater Increases Of Difficulty. Requires more climbing ability,
experience, and energy expenditure. Only talented and dedicated climbers reach this level.

1-30. Additional classifications include the following:

Classes are further divided into a, b, c, and d categories starting from 5.10 to 5.14, for
example, 5.10d.

Classes are also further divided from 5.9 and below with +/- categories, for example, 5.8+.

All Class 5 climbs can also be designated with “R” or “X,” which indicates a run-out on a climb.
This means that placement of intermediate protection is not possible on portions of the route. For
example, in a classification of 5.8R, the “R” indicates periods of run-out where, if a fall was
experienced, ground fall would occur. Always check the local guidebook to find specific
designation for your area.

All Class 5 climbs can also be designated with “stars.” These refer to the popularity of the climb
to the local area. Climbs are represented by a single star up to five stars; a five-star climb is a
classic climb and is usually aesthetically pleasing.
1-31. Aid climb difficulty classification includes the following: Aid climbing classes are also further
divided into plus or minus categories, such as A3+ or A3-, which simply means easy or hard:

1-6

A0

French-Free. This technique involves using a piece of gear to make progress such as clipping
a sling into a bolt or piece of protection, and then pulling up on it or stepping up in the sling.
Usually this is only needed to get past one or two more difficult moves on advanced free
climbs.

A1

Easy Aid. The placement of protection is straightforward and reliable. There is usually no
high risk of any piece of protection pulling out. This technique requires etriers and is fast and
simple.

A2

Moderate Aid. The placement of protection is generally straightforward, but placement can
be awkward and strenuous. Usually A2 involves one or two moves that are difficult with good
protection placement below and above the difficult moves, but no serious fall danger.

A3

Hard Aid. This technique requires testing your protection. It involves several awkward and
strenuous moves in a row. Generally solid placements which will hold a fall and are found
within a full rope length. However, long fall potential does exist, with falls of 40 to 60 feet and
intermediate protection on the awkward placements failing. These falls, however, are usually
clean and with no serious bodily harm.

A4

Serious Aid. This technique requires lots of training and practice. It is more like walking on
eggs so none of them break. Leads will usually take extended amounts of time, which causes
the lead climber to doubt and worry about each placement. Protection placed will usually only
hold a climber’s weight and falls can be as long as two-thirds the rope length.

A5

Extreme Aid. All protection is sketchy at best. Usually no protection placed on the entire
route can be trusted to stop a fall.

A6

Extremely Severe Aid. Continuous A5 climbing with A5 belay stations. If the leader falls, the

TC 3-97.61

26 July 2012