Contents

Figure 10-4. Ice ax in anchor position. ................................................................................. 10-4
Figure 10-5. Ice ax in the push-hold position. ...................................................................... 10-4
Figure 10-6. Ice ax in dagger position. ................................................................................. 10-5
Figure 10-7. Ice ax in hammer position. ............................................................................... 10-5
Figure 10-8. Correct and incorrect crampon technique. ....................................................... 10-6
Figure 10-9. Front-pointing with crampons........................................................................... 10-7
Figure 10-10. Flat-footing in crab position. ........................................................................... 10-7
Figure 10-11. Use of ice ax in descent. ................................................................................ 10-7
Figure 10-12. Climbing sequence. ....................................................................................... 10-9
Figure 10-13. Step cutting and handhold cutting................................................................ 10-10
Figure 10-14. Self-arrest technique. ................................................................................... 10-11
Figure 10-15. Glissading techniques. ................................................................................. 10-13
Figure 10-16. Ice piton pair................................................................................................. 10-14
Figure 10-17. Placement of ice screw using the pick. ........................................................ 10-14
Figure 10-18. Horseshoe or bollard anchor........................................................................ 10-15
Figure 10-19. Equalized anchor using pickets. .................................................................. 10-16
Figure 10-20. Boot-ax belay. .............................................................................................. 10-17
Figure 10-21. Glacier cross-section. .................................................................................. 10-19
Figure 10-22. Glacier features. ........................................................................................... 10-19
Figure 10-23. Ablation zone of glacier in summer. ............................................................. 10-21
Figure 10-24. Rope teams moving in accumulation zone of a glacier. .............................. 10-21
Figure 10-25. Preparation for roped movement. ................................................................ 10-22
Figure 10-26. Prusik ascending technique. ........................................................................ 10-27
Figure 10-27. Z-pulley hauling system. .............................................................................. 10-29
Figure 11-1. Sling-rope carry. ............................................................................................... 11-5
Figure 11-2. Rescue and recovery system (NSN 6530-01-260-1222). ................................ 11-7
Figure 11-3. Rope litter. ........................................................................................................ 11-8
Figure 11-4. Low-angle evacuation—descending. ............................................................. 11-11
Figure 11-5. Cliff evacuation descent. ................................................................................ 11-12
Figure A-1. Level 1, Basic Mountaineer tasks. .......................................................................A-2
Figure A-2. Level 2, Assault Climber tasks. ...........................................................................A-2
Figure A-3. Level 3, Mountain Leader tasks...........................................................................A-3

Tables
Table 1-1. Comparison of rating systems............................................................................... 1-8
Table 1-2. Avalanche hazard evaluation (GREEN-YELLOW-RED) checklist. ..................... 1-30
Table 2-1. Correlation of rapid ascent rates and AMS symptoms.......................................... 2-7
Table 6-1. Rope commands. ................................................................................................ 6-38
Table 7-1. Rappel commands. ............................................................................................... 7-6
Table 8-1. Time-distance formulas. ...................................................................................... 8-11

x

TC 3-97.61

26 July 2012