Contents

Figure 5-3. Chockstones. ....................................................................................................... 5-3
Figure 5-4. Rock projections................................................................................................... 5-3
Figure 5-5. Bushes and shrubs. ............................................................................................. 5-4
Figure 5-6. Correctly opposed carabiners. ............................................................................. 5-5
Figure 5-7. Drape. .................................................................................................................. 5-5
Figure 5-8. Wrap. .................................................................................................................... 5-5
Figure 5-9. Girth. .................................................................................................................... 5-5
Figure 5-10. Rope tied to anchor with anchor knot. ............................................................... 5-6
Figure 5-11. Tensionless anchor. ........................................................................................... 5-6
Figure 5-12. Examples of piton placements. .......................................................................... 5-8
Figure 5-13. Hero-loop. .......................................................................................................... 5-8
Figure 5-14. Piton removal. .................................................................................................... 5-9
Figure 5-15. Chock placements............................................................................................ 5-10
Figure 5-16. SLCD placements. ........................................................................................... 5-11
Figure 5-17. Bolt with expanding sleeve. ............................................................................. 5-11
Figure 5-18. Self-equalizing anchors.................................................................................... 5-12
Figure 5-19. Pre-equalized anchor. ...................................................................................... 5-12
Figure 5-20. Effects of angles on an anchor. ....................................................................... 5-13
Figure 6-1. Correct climbing stance—balanced over both feet. ............................................. 6-3
Figure 6-2. Incorrect stance—stretched out. .......................................................................... 6-3
Figure 6-3. Typical climbing sequence. .................................................................................. 6-5
Figure 6-4. Maximum and minimum sole contact................................................................... 6-9
Figure 6-5. Edging technique. .............................................................................................. 6-10
Figure 6-6. Smearing technique. .......................................................................................... 6-10
Figure 6-7. Examples of jamming. ........................................................................................ 6-11
Figure 6-8. Examples of push holds. .................................................................................... 6-12
Figure 6-9. Examples of pull holds. ...................................................................................... 6-13
Figure 6-10. Examples of pinch holds. ................................................................................. 6-14
Figure 6-11. Examples of jam holds. .................................................................................... 6-15
Figure 6-12. Mantling sequence. .......................................................................................... 6-17
Figure 6-13. Undercling. ....................................................................................................... 6-18
Figure 6-14. Lieback on a face. ............................................................................................ 6-18
Figure 6-15. Stemming on a face. ........................................................................................ 6-19
Figure 6-16. Chimney sequence. ......................................................................................... 6-20
Figure 6-17. Slab technique. ................................................................................................ 6-21
Figure 6-18. Descending slab in the crab position. .............................................................. 6-22
Figure 6-19. Tying-in with a bowline-on-a-coil...................................................................... 6-25
Figure 6-20. Improvised seat and chest harness. ................................................................ 6-26
Figure 6-21. Managing the rope. .......................................................................................... 6-29
Figure 6-22. Sitting body belay. ............................................................................................ 6-30
Figure 6-23. Standing body belay. ....................................................................................... 6-31
Figure 6-24. Guide carabiner for rope control in a body belay. ............................................ 6-31

viii

TC 3-97.61

26 July 2012